Autumn Winter 18 Womenswear Catwalk Denim Review

February’s jam-packed show calendar has come to a close and we’ve digested and dissected the key denim trends to emerge from New York, London, Milan and Paris, so here are our key takeaways:

Many designers took inspiration from Vintage Americana, less true ‘traditional’ western and more along the lines of softer prairie references. Authentic green cast washes and ornate western jackets are key.

Keeping it clean, true raw indigo was shown in varying manifestations, from the most feminine of labels to the more utilitarian and austere. A rinse wash would give a more commercial representation of this often commercially difficult fabric.

Feminine, dusty mid-tone blues were a powerful message that has real commercial power. Easily translatable across varying product types and market offerings; these tones are an easily adopted look for all markets.

Denim cloth was given a new lease of life with beautifully crafted indigo jacquards. This premium and intricate interpretation looked newest on traditional, easily recognisable denim silhouettes.  Other brands represented this look through discharge/ laser prints to deliver this level of delicacy or for bolder messages.

The classic denim western and trucker jackets have been reimagined in an array of new fabrics, from soft luxurious velvet to delicate organza.

Fun Fur trims adorned the classic trucker jacket in oversized silhouettes across the catwalk. From long pile natural to bright colour pops, adding a fun twist to this wardrobe staple.

The newest jean silhouette to come out of this fashion month is the Seam detail Utility Jean. From high-rise straight to wide-leg pants, this utilitarian style was given a feminine slant in mid -one clean blues. Seams were misplaced and highlighted with topstitching, utility pockets are key features within this most modern of styles.

From the brash and bold to the more refined, embellished and bejewelled denim strode down the catwalks from New York to Paris.  Studded hardware details were juxtaposed with more glamorous adornments from pearls, to crystals, tassels and lurex tapes. Jackets and skirts looked the most playful.

Intricate quilting designs and boldly placed panels of checks delivered varying techniques for patching and fabric mixes. Dome brands took to authentic repair looks such as blanket stitches, whilst others sought to create a flowing mosaic of indigo blues.

Denim trends can be a little slow moving and the contrast stitching detail appears to be sticking around. Modernise and update this look with brilliant white thread on dark indigos and washed blacks. Highlight all seams with single or twin needle stitching for the biggest impact.

Accentuated waists looked the newest on jackets, with almost corseted silhouettes in longer line styles.  Self -fabric, tie belts sitting high on the waist were a key feature, particularly on skirts. Denim jeans continued with high rises’ but designers took to adding accentuating waist seams, highlighting the natural waist position.

Not denim, but certainly taking some of the denim world’s lunch: Corduroy is not going away.  All cord structures are looking strong, from fine needle cord to plush, wider wales are well represented across the catwalk and look to be a key fabric for Autumn Winter 2018 at all market levels.

We’d love to hear your thoughts as to which of these trends you’re drawn to the most and look out for more trend updates like our Streetwear “Bold is Beautiful” piece, or you may like the Spring 19 PV denim update? If you love getting the latest news why not sign up to our mailing list?

 

Title image: Faustine Steinmetz and all other images from Vogue
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