BECAUSE BOLD IS BEAUTIFUL
The Autumn Winter 18/19 runways saw bold, contrasting and street-centric looks shown across the cities.
This trend feels so relevant at the moment with the continuation of sports and athleisure, the prints feel irreverent, touching on a logoed or D.I.Y mash-up aesthetic echoed in protest posters or LP covers, flyers or ripped gig posters you might see on the streets of capital cities everywhere or equally be walking through the backstreets of neighbourhoods from Shoreditch, Gowanus to Isola.
James Long, the creative director at Iceberg, showed an exciting collection of casual and sportswear inspired looks. With influences from popular culture, streetwear and with his exciting bold, optimistic and playful aesthetic, signature touches of leather, print, denim and contrasting must-have knitwear pieces the Iceberg collection (shown on the streets of Milan, this was a really strong, covetable collection. The team at Iceberg seemed to have tapped into a globally relevant trend for the bold and utterly wearable design that reflects a hyper-connected and diverse audience.
This mash-up feel was continued with a Tartan slant at Versace with bold primary colours that hinted at the kind of modern-day clans you might see at football stadiums, along with hints of UK’s punk heritage. This was contrasted with touches of more 80s style abstract scarf prints but had an equally bold and somewhat anarchic feel.
Still mixing up strong and bold elements of print, graphics and sportswear Balenciaga explored the power of layering to accentuate the mismatch of softly tailored looks back with exaggerated volume that screams of performance – and so clashing with the softness of the flowing skirts or soft blouses. The maximalism and strong primary colour blocking again serving to make the clash between the different styles of clothing more stark.
MSGM mixed elements of 90s upscale tracksuits, longline silhouettes, bold logo-tastic scarves and knitwear with bold, fun prints that felt like a cross between Vegas and nostalgic arcades we might have visited, The palette was again felt like it was inspired by sports fans – bold and easy to embrace, especially in transitional and cooler months.
Sacai’s signature ‘undone’ irreverent contemporary looks takes the mash-up into the tailoring realm, with multi-dimensional elements taking ‘hybridity’ to a new level. Blended along with athletic, sports and flight-jacket utility looks and a colour palette that uses flashes and colour-blocking to emphasize the deconstructed looks. A different take on the ‘Bold and Beautiful’ trend.
Stella Jean took a distinctly motor-sport inspired direction and mixed it with her African inspired textiles some more light-hearted conversational prints. Easy separates and athleisure inspired silhouettes felt like a very strong transitional collection. Again a palette of strong primaries here based with clean optic white to pop the bold brights.
All these designers took a strong, optimistic stance, which given the level of uncertainty that we’re living in at the moment, feels like a much-needed expression of where they would like to take us. How do you relate to this trend and how do you look at transitional stories as more and more important in the winter season?