Denim PV Spring Summer 19 Report
Paris exhibited exciting and interesting new themes for the Spring/summer 19 season as Denim Premier Vision displayed overriding themes of superior comfort, uniform irregularities and movement.
The theme of superior comfort continues to be explored by using softer, creamier fabric bases shown on looser fits with cupro, Lyocell and viscose all being key fibres to create these soft marshmallow wovens. This superior comfort is additionally enhanced by stretch, to achieve that crossover athleisure look while simultaneously adding further comfort to men’s denim.
Authentic mid blues, pale lilac cast blues and washed blacks continue to be key colour statements, while a growing neutral palette offers a natural veg dyed look. Updated pinks and a palette of strong pastels offer a return to coloured denim for SS19.
Soft, washed out lilac cast blues take inspiration from faded vintage denim tones while authentic mid-denim blues offer a vintage mom/dad look and feel. High twist denims provide a true authentic look with lots of contrast white flecks bleeding though. Slight teal tints offer a subtle update to this rich indigo hue.
Washed greys remain prevalent as black and washed out charcoal greys continue as essential tones across stretch and rigid denims with the addition of unconventional washed neutrals. Ecru tones and washed tobaccos form this neutral palette for SS19 that is seen across basket-weaves and exaggerated twill denims with a focus on natural dyes within this colour story.
Pink is the seasonal statement colour with tones ranging from blush to beetroot – pale pinks are clean and soft and accessorized with rose-gold hardware while deeper tones come through in heavier weights and washes. In addition to this pastel movement, we find strong iridescent pastels offering a fresh look for the season, drawing inspiration from late 90’s and early 00’s influences.
Strong pastel tones of citrus combine with aqua blues, lilacs and pale pinks in finishes that have a spray-painted aesthetic in addition to iridescent coatings paired with opaque resin hardware and iridescent metal hardware, offering a subtler take.
Super soft handles continue to be a key fabric message, with Lyocell and viscose blends and enzyme washes helping to achieve this look and feel. High twist yarns created authentic mottled denim looks while denim fabrics with oversized, exaggerated twills update the modern workwear trend for the upcoming spring/summer season.
Authenticity continues to be a keyword across denim fabrics with vintage-inspired high-twists, exaggerated twills and basket weave being key.
Vintage washes, acid updates and extreme ‘negative’ colour effects were amongst the key washes, while unicorn inspired iridescent coatings and uniform distressing also offered new looks for SS19.
Basket weaves create a tactile criss-cross pattern with a hand-crafted look and feel as displayed across denim PV in tonal contrast indigo/natural looks. In addition to these tonal looks, tonal blistered jacquards appear as denim washes with more extreme seersuckers offering tactile textural updates.
An extreme wash story for SS19 sees acid washes applied to coloured denims and colour applied where fades would normally occur in the wash process. These treatments create a ‘negative’ or inverted look with authentic ‘orange-peel’ like textures applied to rigid looking denim for an enhanced authentic look.
Newer looks saw metallic weaves and raised jacquards as key fabric messages for SS19.
As metallics have become more prevalent, we detect silver and gold lurex yarns are woven into the weft of shimmering denim fabrics with the full effect to be seen on the leg turn-up. This play on wefts provides a surprising take on distressing as distressed bits expose contrast weft yarns of multi-coloured pastels and metallics.
Iridescent and metallic coatings are applied in patches rather than all over for a more commercial look, inspired by the tween trend of all things unicorn and mermaid. Irregular patched coatings are contrasted to uniform washes as these washes offer an all over fade for a cleaner spring/summer look.
High contrast colour snow wash & seaming wash details:
A new twist on the word ‘uniform’ sees regular repeat patterns created through punching and distressing while washes with a uniform look were also seen across the show with similar methods applied to denim that emulate moving surfaces. Such illusions are created by exaggerated slub textures, tonal raised jacquards and 3D effects created by stitched patterns.
Streaky bleaching updates the bleached look through streaked applications that create striped or shadowy/smoky looks while uniform distressing becoming a key update for distressed looks as seen in uniform patterns creating by punching, miniature patchworks and cut-loop jacquards.
Distressing was also found to be utilized in a refreshed method as textural stripes and chevron patterns were created through needle punching and cut-loop fabrications.
Textures – random & patterned…
Selvedge edging is repurposed and repositioned into pocket inserts, sleeves tab detailing and belt loops with lace-up detailing continuing to be a key detail shown by manufacturers across denim PV for SS19 – with variations of styles applied to double-waist details, shirting and jean legs.
The key styling details for SS19 offer new takes on the exposed hardware trend in the form of new eyelet and lacing positionings and full-length zips, while patchworks continue to come through with newness found in contrast fabric blocking.
The paper bag waist is growing in popularity, shown across gathered skirts and wider leg jean silhouettes while customised looks were materialised through embroidered branding on the interior of seams with subtly embroidered slogans positioned around pockets, back yokes and hems.
Subtle branding messaging
Biro-like doodles decorate authentic mid-blue denims in red, blue and black inks for a nostalgic throwback-to-school inspired look with a heavier focus on hardware as the trend evolves into heavy duty exposed zips running along the full length of the leg from waist to hem.
Patchworking remains a key styling detail for mills and manufacturers showing at denim PV – the newest looks see the right and wrong side of the same fabric blocked together to create strong contrasts. ‘Frankenstein’ like patchworks that see jeans repurposed into new pieces (a new take on the 90’s cut off jean skirt) are also growing in popularity.
The patchwork trend translates into panelled/tiered cuffs as jean and jacket cuffs are updated through tiered patchworking, reverse patchworks and raw seam detailing. Another take on the patchwork trend sees sheer fabrications including mesh, netting and lace blocking with denim.
Raw-edged looks continue to trend, with looks becoming more extreme and totally shredded at the hem and confirming the distressing continuation for SS19.
The importance of denim continues and evolves into exciting new applications, textures, tones and washes, making for an exciting Spring Summer 2019 season ahead as each designer and brand brings their own interpretation of denim to the upcoming season.
Thanks to BDA London