London Mens Fashion Week ’19

With Men’s Fashion Week well underway, we take a look at what London had to offer scoping newness in silhouettes, colour, print and pattern as well as key themes for the upcoming spring/summer 2019 season.

Non-Binary

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A key statement or the season was presented in both clothing and models sent down the runway. Non-binary dressing and models deemed to be a huge push on the catwalks as designers showcased flamboyant ensembles as well as toned down unisex or gender-neutral looks. These over the top looks also translated into bright dress-up outfits as child-like looks were displayed in bold colours and detailing, showing no shortage of showmanship.

 

Bright Dress-up

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Reflecting over a decade of political upheaval and uncertainty, designers spark a new way of dressing and thinking through fabric nuances, oversized trims and performance aesthetics as we search for protection in what we wear. As conscious clothing gradually becomes a focal point both aesthetically and through composition, we see the key theme and movement of sustainability evident for Spring Summer 19 with designers such as Rottingdean Bazaar, Christopher Raeburn and Matthew Miller using recycled and upcycled fabrics as well as creating a statement by purely renting outfits from costumes stores.

 

Banana

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Saturated and softer banana tones presented a fresh colour for the upcoming season as designers paired the colour with other pastels, neutrals and head-to-toe looks. These pastel tones move into mixed berry hues with purple undertones, sharing some newness on the catwalks – thistle, muted lilacs and lightened shades of puce displayed in single pieces, co-ord sets and colour blocked variations.

 

True Reds

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We find shades of burnt orange coming through in warm, saturated hues often shown in garments with a utilitarian aesthetic or tailoring. This fresh colour has been seen paired with its complimentary blue and tonal shades. Warm hues continue as true reds appeared in matte tones and driven in large volumes with looks consisting almost entirely of red. Retro sport looks continue to influence wardrobes progressing on from previous seasons with no plan on disappearing any time soon.

 

Checks

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Checks were the popular print for Spring Summer 19 being showcased in soft colour combinations creating a relaxed feel in both smart and casual wardrobes (as seen by Kiko Kostandinov) as well as variations in the Prince of Wales checks and micro windowpane checks in monochromatic colours.

 

Retro Vertical Stripe

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Vertical retro stripes, with an element of nostalgia, were found to be a bold statement for the spring summer ’19 season with large volumes being showcased on the runways in warm, 70’s inspired colour combinations – a few designers exhibiting these stripes include Lou Dalton, Kent & Curwen and Martine Rose.

 

Leather

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Key fabric statements for the season included opaque PU in soft colours and leather being driven in large volumes in either accents, garments or head-to-toe ensembles. Majority of designers chose black leather which was utilized across different styles and looks ranging from 70’s biker looks to new athleisure aesthetics. Nylon remains a fabric of importance with. Many designers sporting this fabrication in sports luxe or performance looks. This textile has evolved the athleisure movement and appears in various weights creating both structured and fluid silhouettes.

 

Reworked Patchwork

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Contrast patchwork caught our eye for the Spring Summer 19 season as designers experimented with fabric blocking made to look like patchwork. Checks and paisley prints were found to be the top pick for ‘patchwork’ when paired with core colours in suiting and denim.

 

Decorative Detailing

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In terms of details, many designers still show minimalistic looks by keeping hardware and closure details either considered or concealed with subtle statements such as contrast topstitching. A decorative element was found displayed through metallic embellishments, studding, embroidery and ruleaux work as seen by Moschino. These decorative nuances provide an exciting take on the Spring Summer 19 season as occasion wear gains momentum.

 

Graphic Knitwear

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Spring summer ’19 presented key items such as the graphic knit jumper, oversized blazers, the wide leg trouser, the short-short and reworked trench coats. Graphic knit jumpers were executed in bright designs, blazer silhouettes included oversized shoulders and sleeves and the short-short, being driven in volume, was displayed in either sports fabrics, denim or cotton.

 

Print Clashing

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Styling took an exciting turn as a huge focus on print clashing was evident with designers like Martine Rose putting together looks clashing between animal prints and stripes while designer Lou Dalton clashed micro checks with large-scale checks – again showing the significance of checks for the upcoming season. Cross-body bags remain prevalent with many designers adding the vital accessory to their looks while performance footwear made its debut – the use of trainers pushes athleisure trends even further as we enter a true performance, tech look and feel. Layers continue to trend as designers explore seasonless looks – lightweight outerwear is a key focus when dressed back with denim or sport wardrobes.

 

London debuted an exciting spring/summer season with fresh new takes on colour, silhouettes and especially print and pattern – we look forward to what the rest of Men’s Fashion Week has to offer.

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