PERFORMANCE DAYS Spring Summer 2019
Munich hosted its annual Performance Days trade show, with SS19 fabrications displaying futuristic and sustainable talking points as well as a huge push on using natural fibres such as Lyocell and Merino.
The future draws nearer as conductive fabrics come about and provide a move on in wearable technology. Fabric mill, Schoeller, has developed a textile which integrates conductive yarns into a fabric that may be cut to size, dyed and washed – a new and exciting feature that may open new doors in the future of fabrication.
Performance wear continues to be at the forefront of sustainability when it comes to fabric development as there is a strong focus on developing recycled fabrics, including 100% recycled polyesters and wools, focusing on using reclaimed ocean plastics. There is also an interest in recyclable or biodegradable fabrics, however, there is a long way to go in developing this idea within an acceptable timeframe of biodegradability, with bio-based man-made fibres expected to grow, yet still a slim field at the time being.
Creating materials and fabrics can be a harmful process to the environment but with the elevated awareness of sustainability, manufacturers have been considering and implementing alternative processes that focus on saving water. Several mills exhibited dope dyed fabrics which are currently the least impactful dyeing process.
Performance Days showcased a variety of fabric trend stories such as super lightweight wovens and fluid knits including Cupros and Merinos. These paperweights displayed sheer qualities with a high-density composition with either super soft or subtle textural finishes while knits showed softshell textures with varying between pleating and smooth surfaces.
Geometric, patterned backs, or patterned reverse textiles, adopt a functional purpose with fleece backed and jacquards patterned with the intention of improving heat retention by creating air-traps while other patterns act as an anti-slip.
The use of a denim textural aesthetic progresses into SS19 athleisure as manufacturers display muted tones with fine as well as more rigid yarns with some fabrications providing a soft Merino back.
Short pile fabrics displayed interesting Sherpa looks with softshell handles and variations in boucles thickness, in contrast, the high shine and glossy looks presented for sports luxe SS19 – many manufacturers presented gleaming fabrications as well as slick metallics.
Distorted inky prints caught our attention as the coloured prints took a new approach to camo with updates becoming more sophisticated and rather discreet compared to the conventional army type camos. Tonal jacquards showcased a muted look with a focus on textural attributes while other fabrications produced a brightly coloured dropped ink aesthetic. Read more of our posts on Sustainability.
With Thanks to BDA London