Trend Review: Milan Fashion Week SS19
The streets of Milan were buzzing with excitement, not only for the runway shows, but also for the fashion that took to the streets as influencers, bloggers and some of the biggest names waited in anticipation to discover what Milan Fashion Week SS19 had offer. We took a look at the key statements for spring/summer ’19 exploring themes, colour, fabrics, key silhouettes and details.
Swimwear launched into the SS19 season with beach luxe themes gracing the catwalks, exhibited by designers such as Moschino, Sportmax and Etro. Designers found a way of planting their personal stamp on swimwear pieces, showcasing how swimwear can be dressed back to everyday apparel.
MFW had designers making a point of dropping the ‘sex sells’ thinking that has dominated the runway for years – hugging silhouettes have been outnumbered by relaxed and loosely fitted forms with an element of masculinity. Performance wear was seen across numerous shows as Fila and Sportmax sent looks down the runway typical to their handwriting, while Fendi had the audience shocked by some of the most memorable sports looks.
Across New York, London and now Milan, neons have been the core statement colourway for SS19. Designers each chose their preferred tone and fitted them to the best suited looks – Iceberg chose an intense lime neon green to create a sports themed look (a colour that is often used in activewear) while Byblos Milano’s hazard orange boiler suit took inspiration from prison uniforms. No. 21’s ultra-feminine look is intensified through its choice of neon pink. Above all, neon green came through as the strongest statement across Milan shows. This punchy hue was seen across a variety of commodities, ranging from sports, to eveningwear as well as casual wear.
Head-to-toe orange was a key colour for MFW – inspired by the abundance of neon, oranges were rather saturated and intensified as seen by the likes of Moschino and Asai. In the midst of a sea of neons, muted and sophisticated sage green broke up the highly saturated brights in crochet knit dresses, by Iceberg, softening the ensemble even further. No. 21 and Prada opted for satin fabrications that contributed to a fresh feeling of newness to smart wear.
Lavender provided a bright and playful summer colour push in contrast to ultra-dark chocolate hue that progressed from the winter season.
Complete dark chocolate looks were most impactful across leather coats and jackets. Dark chocolate was applied to typically trans-seasonal pieces while toffee tones came across as a strong lifted summer continuation, stemming off
There was a great fabric interest at MFW as mirrored and repeated patterns were created through chemical lace, across a multitude of garments. Antonio Marras showcased lace layered over a midi skirt, while Alberta Ferreti and Dolce & Gabbana were applied to bare skin, highlighting the shapes created on dresses and stockings.
Contrast layering and stand-alone sheers were both at large for MFW as sheers were updated through the unexpected construction of sheers, creating a sports inspired piece. Soft silhouettes were echoed in feather trim details seen by No. 21, often in tonal applications that dominated the attention of the garment. Exposed skin was a commonality across textiles for SS19. Brognano took inspiration from this season’s neon colour push by choosing an acidic yellow colour injection for the cropped jacket while Fila kept it simple with a clear poncho.
Prints and patterns were all the rage for SS19 as a variety of abstract, snakeskin, leopard and polka dots prints were sent down the runway across a variety of looks.
Abstract prints came in an abundance of interpretations by the different houses in the form of uneven geometric shapes, with colour palettes best reflecting each brand’s collection.
Following in the footsteps of SS18’s print of the season being leopard print, snakeskin is the must-have print for SS19 according to MFW, favourited across statement outerwear garments. However, leopard print remains key for SS19 as the print was showcased in more daring applications with updates in ruching, feathers and compact ruffle sleeves.
Designers such as Antonio Marras, Emilio Pucci and Asai opted for multiple prints by clashing colours and designs creating a bold eclectic statement.
Another statement seen on the catwalk exhibited bold lettering placed both deliberately and sporadically throughout garments – the letters were either abbreviated or spelt out brand names.
Both faded, and highly saturated, cloudy tie dyes were seen across a range of garments, in both casual and smart wear. Shapes were generally loose and relaxed, reflecting the overall laidback narrative that tie dyes are known for.
The cropped bomber deemed to be a key silhouette for SS19 in a variety of fabrications such as flat and debossed neoprene as well as faux fur blocking details by Anteprima.
Designers took inspiration from intimates for the summer season, with delicate camisoles being a favourite among brands across knit and woven tops. Spaghetti straps and semi-sheer looks were popular by designers such as Annakiki and Ricostru.
This season’s sportswear statement piece was the full cover jumpsuit with contrast panelling and utility details, including zippers and oversized pockets.
The tailored city short made its debut in Milan, being a tailored alternative to this season’s popular cycling short, offering sophisticated option in shorter lengths. The introduction of summer smarts for SS19 extended into the mini wrap skirt, opting for a more playful look and feel in comparison to the city short.
Designers continue to make use of tiered ruffles this season, to create volume and add dimension to their garments – Cristiano Burani and Vivetta applied ruffles from the shoulders to the thigh, while Emilio Pucci opted for a more commercial ensemble by applying ruffles to a maxi skirt. Ruching details were consistently seen across MFW, indicating a clear 90’s influence, especially by designers like Daizy Shely and MSGM. Colour pop mini skirts and dresses were shortened by ruching applications, giving silhouettes a softer, more casual look and feel.
Another shaping detail included the self-tie belt utilized across lightweight outerwear such as the blazer and trench.
Playful characteristics deemed to be a reoccurring theme over MFW with an abundance of commercially friendly ensembles that could easily be translated to your wardrobe for the upcoming spring/summer ’19 season.
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